As spring approaches, the Galician celebrations of Entroido bring mischief and merriment to the northwest corner of Spain. Taking place in the days leading up to Ash Wednesday, these eccentric festivities weave Catholic tradition with ancient pagan folklore.

In the town of Laza, the roguish Peliqueiros dash through the streets, imposing a mix of fear and delight onto the gathered crowd with a crack of their whips, known as ‘zamarra,’ a playful threat to enjoy oneself or suffer the consequences. Dressed to resemble old noble or religious figures, peliqueiros bring a satirical edge to celebrations.

The Bica de Laza, a dense sponge cake, is ceremonially sliced and shared among residents and visitors alike. As pieces of cake are ferried through the crowd on silver platters, eager hands reach out in desperation—frenzied, grasping— intercepting the cake’s intended path, leaving a smear of frosting and crumbs in their wake. 

One final act of indulgence before the austerity of Lent arrives.