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In the African enclave of Paris' 18th arrondissement, clothing ateliers line the bustling streets. Inside each shop, tailors huddle over their sewing machines, immersed in the precise business of needle and thread. Each undertakes the work for their own reasons—to provide for their families, to carry on tradition, or fulfill their dream of opening their own shop. The craft, tactile and meticulous, offers the familiarity of home and the opportunity to negotiate broader economic horizons in a new land.
Atelier co-ops have emerged as collaborative spaces for professional tailors in Paris' Little Africa. The ateliers play a vital role in easing the transition for migrants settling in Paris, acting as a microcosm of Africa’s cultural diversity and fostering a sense of community.
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Fedel, a self-given name meaning “the chosen one by God,” opened his namesake atelier in 2005. He comes from seven generations of Mauritanian businesspeople. After fleeing rising ethnic tensions in the late '80s, Fedel honed his tailoring technique in Senegal and Italy before coming to Paris.
“I don’t work to make money but to master my craft,” he says. “My work is my way of being.”
Today, Fedel partners with a local collective to train the next generation of aspiring tailors.
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Sibide cuts fabric to make a formal dashiki. The tailors working at L’Atelier Partagé say they struggle to find mannequins that are reflective of their client’s skin tones.
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Mathieu Koré, 50, grew up in Abidjan, the economic capital of Côte d’Ivoire, where he attended fashion design school. During his studies, he began modeling, but kept it a secret, fearing his father's disapproval. One day, his father discovered him after seeing a TV advertisement featuring Mathieu. Although he initially faced resistance, Mathieu's father eventually relented, recognizing his son's endeavor was both successful and lucrative. Mathieu went on to pursue a decade-long modeling career in London before returning to his passion for design.
Settling in Paris with his family in 2005, he interned with Yves Saint Laurent and crafted costumes for The Lion King musical. Now working at L’Atelier Partagé, Mathieu sources unused fabric from luxury brands, reimagining them into bespoke pieces for his clients. With his earnings, Mathieu has been able to send both of his children to boarding school, an educational milestone he takes great pride in being able to provide.
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Inside L’Atelier Partagé, a cooperative studio that rents out individual worktables. Tailors seeking an affordable way to conduct business often opt for this model over opening an independent studio. This shop is one of seven atelier co-ops on Rue des Gardes alone.
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Moussa Diagne, who works at a collective down the street from L’Atelier Partagé, discusses custom clothing requests with a client. Though his clothes feature patterns reminiscent of West African textiles, Moussa sources his fabrics from Germany due do their affordability and ease of shipment.
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